Alajuela, just 17 kilometers northwest of San Jose, may be known as the City of Mangoes, but every year in April, in time for Juan Santamaría Day April 11, it becomes the City of Horses with a grand tope, or horse parade, starting off the city's Feria del Erizo (Erizo, literally “hedgehog,” was this national hero's nickname.)

On Saturday, 3,000 horses and riders pranced through the streets of Alajuela and out toward nearby Guácima in a spectacular show of equine culture.

Riders and horses came from all over Costa Rica, but mostly from the Alajuela Province, which is largely rural. The horses were a mixed collection of breeds and colors. The riders were young, old, svelte and stout, many carrying cell phones or beer.

The parade was led by an elegant carriage and riders from Rancho San Miguel, followed by Costa Rica's mounted police in their red uniform jackets.

The word “tope” comes from “topar,” to meet, and goes back to the days of the cattle drive, when cowboys rode out to meet the cattle coming in. Today's topes are fancier, with riders and horses at their best and many of the horses high-stepping along to music.

Even the rain and the hour and a half delay did not dampen the zeal of the riders or the public, and there was little neigh-saying from the horses.