Surfers spend a lot of time watching the ocean. Noting the currents, marking the rip tides, checking the way the waves break before choosing where to begin. The watching is part of the ritual; a gesture of practical respect to the unfathomable might of the ocean.

Start by drawing a surfboard in the sand. Lie down flat on your board, imagine the wave coming, start paddling, grab the sides of the board then jump up, planting your front foot first in the center of the board.

Now try it in the water.

Easy? Well, learning how to surf, like learning how to speak Spanish, depends on several things, like where you learn, who you get to teach you and, of course, your own natural ability. The Green Iguana Surf Camp (GISC) in the southwestern Pacific town of Dominical takes care of the first two – the rest is up to you.

Jason and Karla Butler set up a surfboard repair shop in Dominical four years ago but have only recently combined their respective skills as surfing instructor and Spanish teacher to produce the camp.

Their base is a pretty yellow house, next to the mouth of a lazy river that drifts out into the Pacific, just off the main dirt road that runs along the shore. From here they run the surf camp, a new idea that helps to distribute the tourist income around the local community.

The couple arranges transport to and from San José, tours to nearby mangroves, Pozo Azul waterfall and Marina Ballena National Park. Guests stay either in the beachfront hotel Tortilla Flats or in an attractive two-story guesthouse.

Breakfast and dinner in any of three local restaurants (including La Cappana, one of the best in town) is also included. This way a wide group of people benefit from the camp, and the visitor has less hassle arranging the hotel, restaurants and tours, which are owned separately.

Karla, a Tica, has been teaching Spanish to people from all over the world for six years. Most of her students are beginners and she aims to give them total immersion in the language with lots of conversation, putting the grammar to work in practice rather than theory. She started surfing a few years ago and often assists Jason with surfing instruction, especially when there are big groups or women who prefer a female teacher.

Jason started surfing when he was 14, growing up on both sides of the Florida coast. In 1989 he paid his first visit to Costa Rica. By 1994 he had moved here permanently and married Karla. A few years later he was teaching people how to surf.

"I really get a kick out of teaching," he says. "I like teaching people who can get past that stage of surfer cool. That’s not what surfing should be about, surfing is about having fun."

This philosophy makes Jason a helpful and patient teacher, encouraging potential surfers to enjoy the sport and forget about the image. All camps include an optional two-hour beginners lesson (with never more than three students per instructor), which begins with some general ocean knowledge and safety before moving on to paddling, standing up and – finally – riding the wave.

Dominical is a small village where everyone knows everyone, and pretty much everyone is a surfer. Jason estimates that 90 percent of the residents at any one time are tourists, so the place has a laid-back, holiday feel and a friendly, but almost exclusively ‘surfer,’ atmosphere.

The most consistent beach break in Costa Rica means that Dominical is an excellent place for beginners, and its powerful barrels and nearby point and reef breaks keep even the most advanced surfers well satisfied.

The village itself consists of a small collection of bars, restaurants and hotels, most of which face the ocean, with a few tall palm trees between them and the beach. One of these hotels is Tortilla Flats, which has spacious rooms, fan-equipped rooms that sleep up to three people.

GISC runs camps all year round with flexible packages of seven, 10 and 14 days. A camp includes transport to/from San José, tours, beachfront lodging, breakfast and dinner, a two-hour beginners lesson with all equipment (if needed) and Spanish lessons at any level.

Prices start at $825 for a week and discounts are available for longer periods and group bookings. Bare bones instruction and lodging packages run from $220 a week. For more information call 787-0192 or check out the Web site at www.greeniguanasurfcamp.com.

Getting There

By Car: From San José, head first to San Isidro and then drive roughly 35 km southwest on well-kept highway, about four hours.

By Bus: Take regularly scheduled buses to San Isidro; from there, take bus to either Uvita or Quepos, get off at Dominical. Or take non-direct bus from San José to Quepos that goes to Uvita and get off at Dominical. Allow at least five hours by bus from San José.