It’s the one vacation spot where guests don’t mind being roused from their dreams by a loud, reverberating noise. In fact, they welcome it.

At Tacotal Hotel and Tourist Complex outside the town of La Fortuna in the Northern Zone, people scurry out of bed at all hours of the night to capture the audio-visual effects of Arenal Volcano.

Visible from any of Tacotal’s 15 bungalows, the volcano looms 1,633 m. high, at a safe distance of eight km. from the compound. Glass doors permit viewing from within the units, while covered patios facilitate exciting photo opportunities. For those wondering how a "safe distance" is determined in the shadow of a volcano, the National Emergencies Commission has designated three danger zones of various gradations around Arenal. Tacotal lies beyond even the lowest-risk area.

The tourist complex encompasses two separate parcels of land a healthy walk from each other along the road. The smaller section of two acres contains the charming bungalows, a spring-fed swimming pool, and an open-sided rancho restaurant/bar that seats 70.

Abutting Arenal National Park is the Lavas Tacotal section, extending over 100 uncultivated acres of primary forest, where visitors hike and ride horses past a lagoon formed centuries ago by volcanic upheaval. Wild turkeys, boars, toucans and pizotes inhabit this mountainous forest of fecund and diverse growth.

"You are one with nature here," affirms owner Gonzalo Chacón, who fashioned his own rustic house in a ready-made clearing in the wilderness. "I cut down only one tree, to use as the main post in the hotel restaurant. Otherwise, the land has been left the way God made it."

A devout man, Gonzalo sees his tourist development as a means of drawing people into a union with nature and its creator. Although he acquired the land a decade ago to preserve it, only within the past six months has its destiny been determined.

"That came as a revelation," he recalls, resorting to English interpretation through his bilingual son. "I suddenly wanted to share all this property and beauty, making people more spiritually aware. The way to do it was to build the guest facility and then open up my forest land. Profit was not the main concern – which is why I’ve made the prices reasonable."

Three generations of his family run the business: he as president; his 76-year old father Joaquín, in charge of maintenance; son Alberto, 23, who acts as general manager while pursuing his university studies; and son Federico, 21, in charge of operations. Their enjoyment of guests is evident in their open-arms hospitality and caring service. Gran Tacotal, a second Chacón restaurant that specializes in Costa Rican food, can be found in the center of La Fortuna.

The Spanish word tacotal conveys a weed patch or fallow land, explains young Alberto. When his father saw it used as a description on an area map, that ended the ongoing debate over christening the new development. Grandfather Joaquín, the resident wit, doesn’t mind what the place is called, as long as people keep turning up in "the weed patch." He needs someone to laugh at his jokes, he says.

Rustic though the bungalows appear, with their wood and lava-rock exteriors, inside awaits the pleasure of airy, high-ceilinged rooms with excellent mattresses and modern bathrooms. Two of the 15 are master suites. Each features king-size beds, a sitting area with bar and large-screen Direct TV, and both shower and jacuzzi in the tiled bathroom. Patios, television and air-conditioning enhance all units. Sliding-glass doors display not only the volcanic pyramid, but pastoral surroundings where horses and cattle graze.

On a clear day, one may expect to see jets of steam issuing from the peak and hear Arenal Volcano’s deep, commanding voice. When the roar subsides, a second sound-track is detected – the thudding of rocks down the slopes. Nighttime brings the spectacle of lava spewing into the sky and oozing toward the base of the monster. Guests retire with the confidence that they won’t miss nature’s late-night show, which is always announced with thunderous fanfare.

Meals and drinks are served at poolside or in the rancho, from a fairly extensive menu. Included with the room price is a generous "tropical breakfast" of juice, an array of fresh fruit, toast, jelly and coffee. Full U.S.-style breakfasts or tipico specialties come á la carte. Chef Xavier turns out a tasty grilled chicken with picante sauce for dinner, and fresh-caught tilapia and lake bass may be served whole or in filets with various sauces.

Accommodations are as moderate as the food prices. A standard bungalow during the May-October season costs $50 for two with breakfast, taxes included, while the double Master Suite is $90, again all-inclusive. Guests should inquire about the special exemptions for children of certain ages. Full spa services, such as facials and massages, are offered on the premises.

For the adventurous, Tacotal arranges a roster of activities and sightseeing. Horseback treks lead through the jungle to the Fortuna waterfall or all the way to Monteverde. Water excursions include sportfishing and white-water rafting, along with tours of the Venado Caves, Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge, and a thrilling ride above the forest at Canopy Arenal. No vacation in the area is complete without a closer look at the volcano, whether by vehicle or on a hiking tour to observation points within the safety zone.

Driving takes 2.5 hours from San José along the Inter-American highway, turning off at San Ramón via La Tigra to La Fortuna. Taxis complete the remaining 10-minute ride to Tacotal Hotel and Tourist Complex. Auto Transportes (222-3854) runs buses from San José to San Carlos, where the La Fortuna bus then takes one more hour.

For hotel reservations, call 460-9998; fax 460-9552; E-mail sales@tacotal.com. All major credit cards are accepted.