Where the bad road ends, and the good life begins…

That’s Rancho Burica’s motto and it couldn’t be more appropriate. At the end of the road on the southernmost tip of Costa Rica, overlooking the Pacific Ocean and Panamanian coast, isolated Rancho Burica beckons you with its lush tropical setting.

Just past the small hamlet of Punta Banco 8 km southwest of the surfers’ paradise Pavones, this beachside jungle hideaway offers seclusion, relaxation, sand and surf. Built against a steep hillside covered with verdant green rainforest, the symphony of jungle sounds intermingles with the ocean’s pounding surf.

The friendly laid-back atmosphere of this place originates from the owners, a unique group of young (25-35) Dutch friends who delight in sharing the rustic simplicity of a dream come true with visitors who wish to stay a while.

"We were windsurfing fanatics and have known each other since our early teens," Freek Roughrock says.

In 1996 some of the friends came to visit Reynaldo Losvanvee who was surfing in Pavones.

"Rancho Burica was a fluke – we happened to see a scrappy "for sale" sign written in pencil and decided to buy a piece of paradise for ourselves," Roughrock continues.

Back in Rotterdam more friends joined the conglomerate and the group raised the necessary funds.

Losvanvee says the group gets along extremely well and shares the responsibility of managing the property. He lives in Costa Rica and has his own business, importing wheelbarrows. It takes a lot of his time, but he makes sure somebody is always at the rancho.

"We are all professionals and many of us work on contract, allowing us to take time to do our share of the work – and surf non-stop, of course," Roughrock adds with a grin.

Despite the fact that the owners are ardent surfers, they emphasize that Rancho Burica is not a surfers’ destination. They point to Pavones for the best surfing, known for the longest left-breaking wave in the world.

"We surf here despite the hazardous rocks, but for those who don’t know the area it can be very dangerous," says Losvanvee.

Non-surfers who tire of reading or dozing in a shady hammock can ramble along the deserted beach that stretches for miles in both directions, or take a dip in one of the crystal clear tide-pools. The waterfall, a few steps from the cabins, is a wonderful place for a refreshing natural water massage and shower. Horseback riding, hiking in the rainforest, or the trail to a nearby indigenous village offer interesting alternatives.

Nearby Tiskita Jungle Lodge welcomes Rancho Burica’s guests for guided walks through its exotic tropical fruit farm ($15). Back at Rancho Burica, make sure you reserve enough energy to climb the steps carved out of the hillside leading to the lookout. While monkeys swing and chatter among the branches, sip a cool drink, luxuriate in the fresh ocean breeze and watch the stunning sunset.

"Do what you like, like what you do," says Roughrock. "That’s what this place is all about."

Nestled among the tropical foliage, five rustic one- and two-story wooden cabins house a total of seven rooms, each with a double and single bed. Furnishings are very basic, but the beds are comfortable and all rooms have fans, electricity and mosquito nets. Some have decks with ocean views and all except one share communal cold- water showers and toilets.

A large thatched palm-roof rancho by the ocean sleeps six and has its own private bath. The guest-only restaurant serves home-cooked local fare in abundant portions at reasonable prices. Mealtimes are a family affair and English, Spanish, Dutch, German and French are spoken. Rates range from $6–10 per person. Group rates for the rancho or longer stays are negotiable. There is no phone. E-mail: info@ranchoburica.com and/or see the Web site www.ranchoburica.com

Getting There:

By car: A 4x4 is recommended. From the Inter-American Highway, take the road to Golfito at Río Claro. The turn-off for Pavones is 4 km before town. The dirt road to Pavones takes about 2 hours (40 km). Continue on the road south to Punta Banco and Rancho Burica (8 km), where the road ends.

By bus: The Pavones bus leaves Golfito at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. daily. Only the 3 p.m. bus continues to Punta Banco and Rancho Burica, where it spends the night and returns at 5 a.m. Buses leave San José for Golfito Calle 14, Av. 3 and 5 at 7 a.m. and 3 p.m., (eight hours). Tracopa-Alfaro (221-4214).

By plane: Sansa (221-9414) and Travelair (220-3054) have daily flights to Golfito and from there a jeep taxi is negotiable, (about $40).